My Cup of Java – Cycling this Fascinating Island

BREAKING NEWS: An earthquake hit West Java on Monday 21 Nov 2022. It was felt strongly in greater Jakarta. I’m so sorry to hear of it, the loss of life and the damage and destruction.

I had my route planned through the midline of Java to Yogyakarta. I was excited to be on my way but it was already mid-afternoon and I knew I had a tough day ahead, a mountain crossing of note, so I decided to stay the night and get an early start.

At supper, I got into conversation over dinner with a local man, Suyadi, who, when he saw my planned route, said that there is no way anyone can cycle, fully laden, up the mountains on my route (the red route on the map). He strongly advised that I rethink my route and go through Surabaya instead, saying that cars have to traverse those mountains in first gear, they are so steep.

Some more research showed me that the incline varies between 12% and 23% at times. So I rapidly replanned my ride to follow the green route

Time for a map

I had an inkling that being on such a densely populated island would mean lots of traffic on the roads, but I had no idea. Except for a few kilometres around the Baluran National Park and at Pasuruan near the coast, the roads traverse built-up areas all the way, the traffic is dense with scooters, trucks, cars and buses, non-stop. It just gets busier near the big cities. The result is that I have very few pictures to share of the terrain or countryside but I did see some interesting sights on the way and I met fabulous people..

Cycling through the Baluran Forest reserve was great, cool under the trees, fresh air, nice road and little traffic. I was on the lookout for any wildlife – maybe a lizard or a snake, birds or deer perhaps.

It wasn’t long before my vigilance was rewarded with the sighting of clear evidence of wildlife in the forest

So without delay we decided a rest in the shade was required while waiting for a sighting

It is always interesting choosing a place to stay for the night. Budget plays a big role but clean sheets and a shower that works are paramount. If the air-conditioner works and food is available nearby then that is a bonus. I usually cycle within 10 km of the place I want to stop for the night, then look on Google maps to see what accommodaton is available. I choose a place and navigate directly to it. Sometimes I can book in advance but sometimes I arrive unannounced.

I rode into Sumberwaru. a village in Situbondo and started looking for a place to stay. Rosa’s Ecolodge appealed to me so I made my way there and asked about the accommodation. Rosa made me iced tea and we sat and chatted for a while and I decided to stay. She kindly offered to cook supper for me as well. I was surprised at 17:00 as I was sitting reading in the garden when Rosa brought me a snack of freshly cooked banana fritters and strong Java coffee just to keep me going until supper time. Supper, too, was one of the best I have eaten in Java.

Look at this beautiful Ecolodge.

Rosa is a super kind and generous host. We have become good friends. I will never forget her hospitality.