Good Morning – Vietnam!

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Crossing the border into Vietnam was easy and quick.  The cycle into Ho Chi Minh City (hereafter known as HCMC) was a “thrown in the deep-end” introduction to Vietnamese traffic and the complete disregard for any rules of the road.  It’s crazy but, once you get used to it, fun.  The one behaviour pattern that I had to learn quickly is “give way to the right”.  This means that no one looks when joining the traffic flow from a road on the right or a sidewalk or even just pulling into the traffic.  They simply turn in front of you.  I  swore a lot at them initially until I eventually understood the rule!

I liked HCMC.  It’s big and busy and noisy but it has oodles of character.  Beware walking around at rush-hour, you’re likely to be bumped by scooters riding on the sidewalks to get ahead of the traffic.

Riding on the Sidewalk

Remember my friend the Vietnamese cyclist?  Well while I was still on my way to HCMC I was contacted by  one of her friends, Huong Thu, who invited me for a cup of coffee.  Such a kind gesture.

Friend and Huong

Huong asked what my plans were and when I said I was going to Cu Chi to see the tunnels she promptly invited me to join her at a Pagoda in Cu Chi for a very important Buddhist ceremony to honour one’s parents and to pray for them in the past, the present and the future.  I accepted gladly and we made plans to meet in Cu Chi the next day

It was a very moving ceremony, obviously as it was conducted in Vietnamese, I could not understand a word but Huong kept up a running commentary.  At one point, the mothers at the ceremony had their feet washed by their children as a sign of great respect and reverence.  Very emotional for all.  Afterwards we all shared a delicious lunch prepared by the parishioners (if one can call them that?)  Everyone was very kind to me and made me feel welcome.  Houng introduced me to her friends who promptly invited me to tea at their home but only after an extended photo session.

It was a delightful experience and I am so grateful to Huong for including me in this amazing ceremony.  What great insight into the lives of Vietnamese folk.

Cu Chi Tunnels

The Cu Chi tunnels are a series of underground passages and rooms that connect 5 villages around Cu Chi.  There are more than 250 km of these tunnels.  They were used as safe places for the villagers and to house and move troops into attack positions.  The rooms are sleeping quarters, offices, storage, kitchens, lecture rooms, movie and games rooms, hospital and surgery rooms.  They were cleverly disguised especially the ventilation shafts and entrance and exits.  Believe me, they are very small and narrow.  Not for anyone with claustrophobia.

There were bigger entrances though so I did manage to crawl through several passages and rooms.   Mostly on my hands and knees!

War Remnants Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral and Old Post Office

A day sightseeing in HCMC must include all of these.  The war remnants museum has a collection of American weapons and armaments and aircraft which are interesting to see.  Inside you can spend hours looking at the pictures and stories presenting the Vietnam War (or American War) from the Vietnamese government perspective.  Once again it is very depressing to see the sheer destruction wreaked on the country by the Americans.  The impact of the phosphorous bombs, cluster bombs, landmines and agent orange is still evident today.  What an absolute tragedy.

The Notre Dame Cathedral is beautiful but undergoing renovations so no one is allowed inside except parishioners for Mass.  The old post office is a lovely building.  Very busy – you can even phone home on an analogue phone!

2 Replies to “Good Morning – Vietnam!”

  1. Oh El, you’ve made my Braai Day (Sept 24 in ZA). I’ve loved ‘travelling’ with you and pleased I’ve caught up with you in HCMC. But I’m sure by now you’re ready for an update, and I can’t wait.

    Vonny, now I know what it’s like to be on the ‘reading side’ of the travellers news. It’s wonderful

  2. After 5 months I’ve finally gotten off my lazy ZA arse to read your wonderful blog! WOW! I traveled the region 20 years ago and love that it still holds so much character. Big hugs and love El, you make the most amazing-looking Big Bear!

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